My Itchy Travel Feet | The Baby Boomer's Guide To Travel

Hawaiian Culture Lives at Place of Refuge

by Donna Hull on 2010/01/12

tiki-place-of-refugeAre you planning a baby boomer vacation on Hawaii? Be sure to take a break from resort activities in the Kailua-Kona area to experience Hawaiian culture and history. A 30-minute scenic ride south on Highway 11 will introduce you to Pu’uhonau o Honaunau National Historical Park, also known as Place of Refuge.

What did ancient Hawaiians do if they broke one of the many laws of the kapu system? To avoid death by clubbing, strangulation, fire or spear, they ran for the nearest place of refuge or Pu’uhonau, where the lawbreaker’s violations could be absolved through certain rituals. Pu’uhonau o Honaunau Historical Park is a well preserved example of a Place of Refuge.

tiki-place-of-refuge-hawaiiThe park includes royal grounds,which are separated from the place of refuge by a 10-foot-high wall that is 17 feet thick. Situated on Keone’ele Cove, where only royals were allowed, the site includes black lava flows that seem to creep into the ocean in a jagged tangle. Farther back from shore, coconut palms shade the heiau (temple) where wood carved tiki statues stand guard.

A one-hour self-guided tour introduces visitors to the tools and structures used by the ancient Hawaiian culture, including royal fish ponds. But take your time; this is a beautiful spot for lingering, especially about an hour before sunset.

The park charges a small entry fee of $5 per car. You won’t find any food concessions or even vending machines. Bring plenty of water and sunscreen as the dark lava flows tend to radiate heat from the tropical sun. Bottled water can be purchased at the gift shop. Consider bringing your snorkel gear for exceptional snorkeling among the coral gardens at Honaunau Bay, immediately adjacent to the park.

place-of-refuge-hawaiiAlan and I discovered Pu’uhonau o Honaunau National Historical Park while reading Hawaii The Big Island Revealed at The Orchid Inn, our Halualoa accommodations in the hills above Kona.  On the drive to Place of Refuge, we detoured through the coffee plantations to Napo’opo’o Beach. Sitting on the rocks that Hurricane Iniki deposited on shore, we ate our deli sandwich lunch while watching kayakers make their way across Kaelakekua Bay to the Captain Cook Monument. Afterwards, it was a short, flat drive across ancient lava flows to Pu’uhonau o Honaunau Historical Park.

Have you visited Pu’uhonau o Honaunau National Historical Park? Leave a comment to tell me about your experience. When Alan and I return to Hawaii, we’ll definitely be enjoying another off-the-beaten-path experience at The Place of Refuge.

I have included an Amazon link to Hawaii The Big Island Revealed for your convenience. However My Itchy Travel Feet does receive a small percentage for purchases made at Amazon.com.

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{ 16 comments }

jennifermargulis January 12, 2010 at 1:58 pm

I've been here and it's very beautiful and peaceful. The weather was very hot when we went though, so I recommend enjoying this place refuge first thing in the morning.

marthaandme January 12, 2010 at 1:58 pm

We visited here when we were in Hawaii in 2008. It really is worth seeing. We found the little map they give you with explanations to be a little unclear in some areas and I also felt like I wanted to know more than just a little flyer could tell me. When we were there, there was a man in traditional dress working on making canoes. It was interesting to watch him, but he wasn't very friendly. That and the fact that there seemed to be nothing underneath his short loincloth steered us (traveling with kids) away from him! It is an interesting place and I was happy to get a glimpse of traditional (not luau!) Hawaiian culture up close.

Sheryl January 12, 2010 at 2:15 pm

Donna, This is very interesting. It's nice to know the history behind this site. I've yet to visit Hawaii, and am very anxious to go, especially with all your expert tips (and this cold winter!)

Sandy2118 January 12, 2010 at 2:56 pm

My daughter is in Hawaii right now, on her honeymoon. Love the new photo at the top!

Donna Hull January 12, 2010 at 3:06 pm

I hope your daughter's having a wonderful honeymoon on Hawaii.

Thanks for noticing the change at My Itchy Travel Feet. Actually, the
new photo at the top rotates to a new one with each click of your mouse.

Kristen J. Gough January 12, 2010 at 4:27 pm

I've never been to Hawaii, but with all these good ideas, it does look like an ideal vacation spot.

travelsavvymom January 12, 2010 at 4:45 pm

A loooooooong drive, but well worth it!

Frugal Kiwi January 12, 2010 at 9:25 pm

Snorkelling is one of my favourite activities and I'm always looking for great places to put on my Wish List.

sarah henry January 12, 2010 at 10:04 pm

snorkeling in Hawaii…yes please!

Alisa Bowman January 13, 2010 at 1:37 am

This was fascinating. I'd like to make a refuse just like this somewhere in my house. I guess I'll have to settle for looking at the photo and using my imagination.

Donna Hull January 13, 2010 at 2:04 am

You made me laugh, Alisa. Perhaps we all should have a Place of Refuge somewhere in our own homes. If I shut my office door, does that count?

Donna Hull January 13, 2010 at 2:06 am

It didn't seem that long to us; but, we are two baby boomers who don't mind putzing around. Seriously, you probably should devote a day to this, which give you time to explore.

MelanieHaiken January 13, 2010 at 7:48 am

This looks like such a serene and inspiring place. Think I better add it to my list of my top 12 places to visit in 2010! Just blogged about making time to visit places that take you out of the here and now, and this looks like one of them.

Sheila January 18, 2010 at 4:46 pm

Hi Donna,

What a coincidence – I re-visited Pu’uhonau o Honaunau the day you published this post! It was my second visit there, but hopefully not my last. I think it's such a fascinating place and as you said, well worth the effort and small fee.

putude February 21, 2010 at 2:04 pm

I never go there. But the place looks very beautiful.

floridacarhire April 7, 2010 at 12:55 pm

Love this, would like to go !

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