Nagasaki, Japan. What do those words mean to you? Destruction? Nuclear devastation? Wasteland? During my boomer childhood, schoolbooks taught about the powers of the atom bombs dropped on Nagasaki and Hiroshima to end World War II. In the Cold War aftermath, I remember elementary school emergency drills where I crouched against the cold, concrete walls in the hallway, one arm across my eyes, the other protecting my head as if that was any safeguard against a nuclear blast that would destroy everything for eons. Or so I was taught.
I’ll admit, I hadn’t given Nagasaki much thought through the years, or kept up with the community’s recovery. When I read that Nagasaki would be a port on our Vancouver to Singapore itinerary with Regent Seven Seas Mariner, I wasn’t sure that I wanted to get off the ship. Right or wrong, my country dropped an atomic bomb on the city. I still equated it to a wasteland. Why would I want to visit? And why would the citizens welcome Americans?
On the morning that we sailed into the Nagasaki harbor, a green, mountainous landscape appeared in my balcony window. Stepping outside, I looked for signs of devastation ― a denuded forest ― land that had not come back to life ― I didn’t see any.
Soon, Alan and I were riding on a bus through a bustling harbor area on a Regent excursion to the Peace Park, followed by a visit to the Atomic Museum. In the park, a giant statue pointed to a bomb falling from the sky with one arm, while pointing to the earth with the other. Origami crane flags, symbols of peace, hung in a kiosk. Sidewalks were lined with statues inscribed with words of solace and wishes for peace, gifts from countries throughout the world. The scene ended at a dove-shaped fountain.
At the Atomic Museum, winding ramps led downstairs into the actual display. It felt as if we were descending into the very bowels of the earth or was it really hell? In a darkened room, sirens wailed and residents reached out from smoking rubble. All that was missing was the stench of death.
Other galleries contained photos and personal items recovered from the debris. Japanese, Americans and other nationalities, stood shoulder to shoulder observing the lessons of history.
When the tour ended, our guide offered to lead those of us who were interested across the street to the obelisk that marked ground zero. Tourists took turns standing in front of the granite column smiling for the camera but I couldn’t do it. How could I smile in front of a place that marked such devastation?
I’m glad I got off the ship in Nagasaki to discover a city that is alive and well with citizens who were polite and welcoming.
Have you visited Nagasaki? Post a comment to share your experience. I think that every world leader with his or her finger on the detonate button should be required to walk through this museum.
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{ 14 comments… read them below or add one }
I have not been to Nagasaki and think I would have reacted pretty much as you did had I had the same opportunity. I find all such places lugubrious. My husband is a historian and loves to visit old battlefields. Not my cup of tea. I prefer flower gardens. This was interesting though. Thanks for sharing your impressions.
Alexandra recently posted..Wellfleet’s Deck This Hall Blasts Off With Holiday Cheer
Twitter: DonnaLHull
December 5, 2011 at 5:51 am
Alexandra, there is a lovely flower garden that you would enjoy in Nagasaki. Although I wasn’t keen on visiting the Atomic Museum, I’m glad that I did.
Donna, I’m so glad you didn’t have your photo taken in front of the obelisk – I couldn’t have done it either.
Barbara Weibel recently posted..PHOTO: The Basilica in Quito, Ecuador
Twitter: DonnaLHull
December 5, 2011 at 5:50 am
Appreciate the support, Barbara. And I don’t mean to disparage anyone who had their photo taken in front of the obelisk. For me, it was a personal choice.
Twitter: inspirngtrvlrs
December 3, 2011 at 4:18 am
I definitely want to visit this site when we get to Japan!
Andrea recently posted..Beers of the World: A Round-Up from Bungas
Twitter: DonnaLHull
December 5, 2011 at 5:49 am
Andrea, I can’t wait to read about your trip to Japan. We would love to go back.
Twitter: travelwonders
December 3, 2011 at 1:25 pm
I endorse your actions in not being photographed smiling in front of the obelisk. Let us all hope that marking such places and offering museums help us remember the savagery and loss that war causes and reduces the will to fight wars in the future. Sadly I think mankind are slow learners.
Mark H recently posted..Drinks Around the World: Spritz (Italy)
Twitter: DonnaLHull
December 5, 2011 at 5:47 am
Mark, unfortunately, I think mankind is a no-learner rather than a slow learner.
Twitter: gypsynester
December 5, 2011 at 9:40 am
Wow. The atomic museum sounds like a harsh, yet necessary, stop. I also remember the school lessons of Nagasaki and can still feel the horror I felt as a child watching the filmstrip. Thanks for sharing your experience. -Veronica
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Twitter: DonnaLHull
December 5, 2011 at 3:09 pm
Hi Veronica, thanks for commenting. Yes, a visit to the Atomic Museum is a bit harsh, probably like touring the concentration camps in Germany. They aren’t pretty parts of our history but it is necessary to remember, visit and hopefully learn.
It’s important to visit places like Nagasaki to reinforce all the reasons why we should work for peace and not war
Heather on her travels recently posted..There’s much more to Munich than the beer!
Twitter: DonnaLHull
January 10, 2012 at 8:02 am
I agee. I assume that the feeling is much the same when one visits the Nazi concentration camps. If only we would learn from the lessons of history.
Twitter: TravelDish1
February 19, 2012 at 12:14 pm
I haven’t been to Nagasaki yet, but it is on my list, as Japan and its culture do interest me. I lived in Korea for 3 years, but my travel was usually to escape the winters in South East Asia. My grandfather was a prisoner of war in WWII Japan. He was captured on Corregidor (which I spent four days exploring in 2005) and ended up in Cabanatuan’s prison camp, eventually being loaded into a death ship to Japan to work as a slave in the coal mines in Honami (near Fukuoka). He describes the strange mushroom cloud in the air and the camp being deserted, which did turn out to be the aftermath of Nagasaki. I understand from any perspective, to see those memorials and think of the human lives lost is difficult, and my heart goes out to all of those civilians, but the thing that bothers me and is completely lacking in Japan is any acknowledgment of their actions or memorials for the POWs that perished there. You will find no markings or memorials where the camps are. Even the local Japanese people couldn’t tell you, unless you come across an elderly person who remembers. I have a plan to visit my grandfather’s camps there and I have two sets of maps from researchers that helped me. One that is modern and another to lay over that will show the old locations of the camps, as you can’t find them otherwise. Though, I have no problem with modern Japanese people, I still have a hard time with the government and many companies there that profited off the slave labor without ever apologizing or even admitting it.
For those who believe it is all in the past, that is not so, as there are POW survivors who have worked to gain such acknowledgment and get back wages as a principal from the private companies they worked for as POWs. Not only has the Japanese government not acknowledged these actions, but they, not the companies involved will admit or even apologize still. One such company is Mitsubishi and I can assure you I will never drive one. The mining company my grandfather worked for as a slave as his health deteriorated is still a profitable mining company out of Tokyo with many mining contracts in America, specifically Alaska.
There are several Japanese scholars living in the USA fighting the Japanese government over the extreme censorship of the history books they are trying to write, or have written. If you visit anywhere in Asia, you will find the camp sites have been preserved as memorials. Even inside the “Hanoi Hilton”, which is mostly a testament to the French occupation and what they did to the Vietnamese, there are several rooms dedicated to the US prisoners of Vietnam, skewed and propaganda-like as that info may be.
Interestingly enough, many people don’t understand that far more people would have died had we not dropped those bombs. Women, children, the elderly in Japan were all being trained to fight as the US took back islands getting closer and closer to Japan. With each battle, the Japanese casualties grew based on the mass suicides to escape capture as their culture — their honor– couldn’t allow for that. Also, there were over 500,000 allied prisoners in Japan and the order had not only been given to kill them all once Japan soil was invaded, but also orders had gone out to start killing already. There were prisoners killed on the island of Palawan in January 1945 as we were taking back the Philippines, and that was just a start. Many of the ‘comfort women’ were killed as things looked more and more like we may invade in order to cover up some of the horrors being committed.
This is not to say I am pro-nuclear weapons, as I am certainly not, but there is a lot of history and theories around those bombs we dropped being what has kept others from pushing those buttons with their itchy, power-hungry little fingers. The level of destruction was like none anyone had seen before, and though everyone involved in that war had scientists working to create such a bomb, I don’t think any of them understood the sheer magnitude of the destruction, fall-out or consequences until they were used. Many theorize that is why with all the weapons we have stored up no nation has used them since. Let’s hope we can manage to get rid of them all before future generations forget that horror and think to use them again.
What was surprising for me to realize after three years living in and traveling Asia, is the complete lack of trust and at times even fear of Japan from its neighboring states. The things they did, the way the denied it, actions they have taken, such as digging up a group of Japanese soldiers convicted and put to death for war crimes and enshrining them as heroes in the 1970′s. This has had a long-standing effect on all of Asia and it is one I really felt while living there and visiting places like Vietnam and The Philippines.
I cannot deny that based on my grandfather’s experiences and what happened to him (which I have to almost completely research on my own over the years as he really didn’t discuss it and I was only 12 when he died); this is personal for me in a way it may not be for others. Part of that is the simple lack of knowledge we have about what was taking place in Asia while the Nazis were tormenting and killing the Jews. We all know of those horrors, and horrors they most certainly are. Six million Jews died in and Holocaust and many more lost their lives through loss of family, spouses, children, good health, all worldly possessions, and the memories they had to endure for their lifetimes. That should be acknowledged and memorialized and we should never forget. Unfortunately most people are unaware that the Japanese did the same not only to allied prisoners, but to fellow Asians. Thirty million Chinese died at their hands from the early 1900s through WWII. They were tortured and experimented on and kept captive. Their women were taken as ‘comfort women’ to provide comfort to the Japanese soldiers and were raped and beaten up to 40 times per day. The guilt of the bombs has not only changed the way we dealt with our returning POWs, but also the lack of this information in history.
I do hope I have not offended you in any way. Your article was lovely and I do think Japan, and especially many areas outside of Tokyo, with their beauty, history and traditions, are well worth visiting and exploring, and I hope to do so for those reasons as well as the purpose of revisiting those places for my grandfather, but I hope we will never forget the horrors our own people suffered there and how important it is to be aware of history in order not to repeat it.
Thank you, Christine H.
Christine recently posted..Explore, Eat, Write Repeat…
Twitter: DonnaLHull
February 21, 2012 at 3:14 pm
Hello Christine, thanks for leaving such a thoughtful comment. We appreciate all points of view. You have offered more for us to think about.
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