It’s no secret here at My Itchy Travel Feet that Alan loves road trips. When we decided to drive Highway 12 Scenic Byway on a late spring road trip through southern Utah, he walked around the house for days with a big grin on his face. But this last-minute trip, while beautiful, proved to be challenging.
Utah’s Scenic Byway 12—A Journey Through Time—travels through southern Utah on a geological road trip across ancient seabed remains to an alpine forest that tops out at 9,000 ft—one of the highest in the world. And it’s packed with outdoor recreational opportunities, national parks, monuments and off-road adventure. No wonder this 124-mile stretch of pavement has been named an All-American Road by the U.S. Department of Transportation.
Starting out in Torrey
Our itinerary started at Torrey, Utah, at the eastern end of Highway 12, where we had allotted several days to explore Capitol Reef National Park. Things began to unravel when the bed and breakfast owner notified us less than a week before the trip that she was closing for the foreseeable future due to a bad case of shingles.
Offering her sympathy and understanding, Alan and I quickly began working on alternate arrangements. Only this was the week of Memorial Day weekend—one of the busier tourism seasons for driving Highway 12 Scenic Byway. It had been hard enough finding accommodations during the planning stages of this last-minute trip, now it was almost impossible to locate decent lodging in a remote area with limited accommodation choices. Alan and I changed dates and itinerary, then settled on a place in Escalante that I won’t be writing about.
If you’re looking to escape summer’s heat, plan your Utah Highway 12 Scenic Byway drive for April-May or September-October. Book lodging ahead as these are popular months for tourism.
We’ll plan the trip far enough in advance to book a room at the all-inclusive Cougar Ridge Lodge in Torrey. In Capitol Reef National Park, hiking to Hickman Natural Bridge and exploring a portion of the Cathedral Valley Scenic Byway are on the to-do list.
Moving up to Boulder
Keeping the original driving itinerary, minus the visit to Capitol Reef, our Highway 12 road trip begins in Torrey. Quickly the pavement climbs in elevation along the eastern slopes of Boulder Mountain to over 9,000 ft on the Aquarius Plateau. The lush, forested landscape surprises us. I make a mental note to return in the fall to see golden-colored aspen leaves accented against the evergreens. Or maybe we’ll bring the ATV next time to explore any number of jeep trails or backcountry roads in the Dixie National Forest.
During our stay in Escalante, we return to Boulder for a morning’s drive on Burr Trail Scenic Byway. Finding a small slot canyon to explore is a special treat.
We’ll build in a couple of days at either Boulder Mountain Guest Ranch or Boulder Mountain Lodge. That way, there will be time to visit Anasazi State Park Museum to explore the six-room replica of an ancient dwelling plus a portion of the partially excavated Ancestral Puebloan village dating between 1050 and 1200. And, of course, Alan will want to drive Hell’s Backbone Scenic Byway, a gravel and dirt road that travels between Escalante and Boulder.
Finding adventure in Escalante
As we drive Highway 12 Scenic Byway from Boulder to Escalante, the colorful rocky scenery changes from pink to beige to yellow depending on which geological time period we’re traveling through. At the Hogback portion of the road, I hold my breath as the pavement travels across a thin, slick rock ridge with steep drop-offs on both sides.
Escalante makes a good adventure base. During our stay, we return to the Calf Creek Recreation Area between Escalante and Boulder to hike to Lower Calf Creek Falls. On another day, we drive a portion of Hole-in-the-Rock Scenic Byway to explore Devils Garden.
We’ll stay south of town at the Slot Canyons Inn Bed & Breakfast. Alan already has plans to drive the Posey Lake/Pine Creek Scenic Byway, which goes from slick rock to forests on the slopes of Escalante Mountain in Dixie National Forest. And then there’s hiking at Kodachrome Basin State Park or exploring Escalante Petrified Forest State Park. And if we’re really feeling brave—and the weather is dry—the 46-mile adventurous dirt journey on Cottonwood Canyon Road Scenic Backway will make Alan a happy man.
Arriving at the western end of Highway 12 Scenic Byway
As Alan and I drive the last few miles of Highway 12, we regret not including time in the itinerary to visit Bryce Canyon National Park. But driving through Red Canyon is a good reminder of the pink rock beauty of the Bryce Area. We’re definitely coming back again for more boomer travel adventure.
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